Fri 2023-10-13 Blackies 3ft waves

Some days are a struggle. Today was one of those. Caught 3-4 waves in 1 hr. Stayed on the north side of the pier. Maybe I expected too much from the forecasted conditions that promised swells that are decent but not too big. 2-3 ft waves wiped me out again and again. I still couldn't get enough power or speed from paddling to catch green waves. After I got tired from being wiped out and tumbling with/under my 9ft max, I let the white waves take the board and practiced standing up. Offmounts were terrible today too. I landed on my butt, knees and once on my hands really hard and felt the impact on my shoulders. A graceful experienced surfer nearby kept catching green waves and popping up light as a feather. That added salt to my injuries. I know I shouldn't compare myself to others but it was one of those days. Two beginner surfer boys came later and couldn't catch waves which made me feel a little better. Even my usual donut and coffee place charged me more than usual. I usually pay $3 or $3.50, depending on who I get. But this time, I got charged $4.25! I could have fought it but I let it go. It must have been Friday the 13th effect. When I sat on the boardwalk drinking coffee, I saw the old surfer Rick again, talking to a friend. I wonder if he hangs out at Blackies everyday. I almost forgot how beautiful the water was when I first got in. Sun was rising and the iridescent pink and orange were reflected on the calm blue water and shimmering beyond the waves.